May 17, 2012
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Welcome to Illinois Wine Country

Thousands of years ago, glaciers stopped short of Southern Illinois, creating a geography perfect for wine country
Blue Sky Vineyard feels like wine’s temple.

Between Highways 127 and 57 is a gravel road looping by one-bedroom, red-roofed cabins next to a large lake. The road ends at an impressive building, complete with a wraparound patio, peaked ceiling, brick bar, stained glass windows, and a loft with cathedral-esque chandeliers. Inside, John Patrick Russell is all smiles, and why shouldn’t he be? It’s a Thursday afternoon in June, and patrons casually are drinking inside his winery in Southern Illinois. It’s busy, and the weekend has yet to begin. Russell opened Rustle Hill Winery (a play on his last name) in 2008, and today, a group of retired businessmen already are several beers deep inside while local college students sip wine on the patio. The tiny stage across from the bar is empty for now, but Russell promises five concerts happen every weekend.

That was his original idea: to create a music venue in the middle of Southern Illinois wine country two hours west of Evansville. “We’ll do Woodstock,” he jokes of his vision now. The reality of Rustle Hills is bigger than that. Russell sells an experience: live music at an outdoor amphitheater, locally produced wine, breathtaking views, and cozy, lakeside accommodations.

He’s the latest to discover the power of wine to attract tourists to Southern Illinois. Alto Vineyards was the first to open in the region in 1984. What followed were 11 more entrepreneurs capitalizing on the ideal landscape and climate for grape growing — rolling hills, a regular breeze, and soil with limestone bedrock. Every winery feels familiar in the sense that wine is produced at each location, but each winery has a unique character stemming from the owner. StarView Vineyards comes from co-owner Scott Sensmeier, a Cobden, Ill., native who worked for several years in Atlanta’s upscale neighborhood Buckhead, and the interior design reflects this sensibility. Anders Hedman, though, is from Sweden, and if his thick accent isn’t enough to tip you off, his business, Hedman Vineyards, also has a restaurant with a Scandinavian-influenced menu: featuring Swedish meatballs and wiener schnitzel.

Sensmeier and Hedman join 10 other wineries to form the Shawnee Hills Wine Trail, a collaborative effort to attract tourists to Southern Illinois. While wine is the key product, Shawnee Hills offers picturesque scenery filled with sandstone canyons and forests deep and dense running from the highways.

Wineries

Alto Vineyards

You’re drinking: The owners describe Heartland Blush as “reminiscent of grandma’s grape jelly.”

Two decades is a long time to perfect winemaking, and experience is one reason Alto Vineyards is the largest producer on the trail (around 34,000 gallons a year). After releasing its first wine in 1987, founders Guy Renzaglia and Ted Wichmann sold 2,000 bottles. Today, Alto Vineyards sells around 10,000 bottles a year of the most popular sweet red wine, Heartland Blush.

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