Blurred Lines

White tablecloths and napkins festoon the Edgewater Grille, a 13-year staple on the banks of the Ohio River in Newburgh where the interior design creates a formal atmosphere, but the very nature of the family-owned business fosters a casual impression. With such a blended ambiance, Edgewater is a locale boasting a varied menu as well. Owner Jacqueline Schen hopes the menu appeals to the masses because she believes it’s a menu with dishes “for anyone with taste buds.”

The river view inspired my taste buds to try a fish dish, and I learned Edgewater’s fresh trout almondine ($18.99) is an experience worth savoring. The 10-ounce fish is lightly breaded with flour and sautéed in olive oil. The result is a golden brown, flaky coat that nicely contrasts with the delicate fillet. Atop the trout are slivers of toasted almonds. Garnished with a lemon wedge, the dish suggests a fancy dinner for two, but the restaurant, loaded with windows offering views of the Ohio River and an open deck that gives diners a cool breeze rolling off the water, provokes a remarkably relaxed atmosphere. Schen wants the restaurant ambiance open to interpretation. To Schen: “We’re still pretty casual.”

For more information on Edgewater Grille, see our Dining Directory.

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