Scott Nickens, owner of The Deli at Old National Bank, has been feeding Downtown business owners, workers, and visitors since the 1990s. Ask him about local flavor, and he has plenty to say.
Tell us about your background in the food industry.
I have been in the kitchen since 1975. My first job was at Oak Meadow Country Club as a prep cook. My real love of food came from time spent in the kitchen with my grandmother; she loved to cook for family. When she made her kuchen, she put finely grated potatoes in the dough. She said the starch in the potato kept the cake moist and acted as a preservative/stabilizer. One thing she taught me to make was warm German potato salad — let me tell you, there is none better.
How would you describe the city’s flavor profile?
If I had to coin a phrase, I would say “Midwest casual” with a strong Germanic influence. Lots of smoky flavors. Just good, old-fashioned comfort food with some international flavors thrown in.
What traits define the local culinary scene?
Lots of casual local eateries that feature old favorites and some outstanding ethnic joints here and there bringing new tastes to Evansville.
Share some international flavors you enjoy around town.
Kabob Xpress, for the lamb kabob and chicken shish tawook. My wife, Patti, loves the shrimp kabob. La Campirana does a great job with its birria, and its bistec a la Mexicana is excellent — get ready for spicy. I also like Vietnamese Cuisine. I get the chicken wings [called Cánh Gà Chiên, it’s a savory, saucy skillet dish made with beef] and add a side of fish sauce. I like the pork noodle salad, and my son, Ian, and I always take a jar of chili garlic sauce from home to spice things up.
What are your go-to restaurants for dining out?
Pangea Kitchen — I love its big meatballs, and its salads are very creative. Don’t forget to try the Detroit-style pizza. I love The Log Inn; I’ve been going there since I was a kid and go there every year on my birthday. I love the fried chicken gizzards and the family-style service. My favorite pizza is Turoni’s — its Italian sausage and pizza sauce are top notch. Patti and I like to go to Darmstadt Inn for entrees for the grilled or breaded pork tenderloin. I would be remiss if I forgot to mention the Texas barbecue stromboli from Pizza King.
Name a few chefs you think are on the rise or doing it right.
I like what Jeremiah Galey is doing at Bad Randy’s Hot Chicken & BBQ Lounge. I’ve enjoyed the barbecue grits and the crab fries. Watch out for the hot chicken — if you’re not into spice, it can get very hot. Another young chef that is doing good things is Mike Hite at Entwined Wine & Cocktail Bar. His small plates and charcuterie are second to none, and his use and mixing of local ingredients is outstanding in the area. I can say this because he used to work for me.
Answers edited for clarity and length by Jodi Keen
